Hi everyone.
It's been a real long time since I've done article writing.
Today I will just be sharing a part of my assignment with you all. I hope you find it informative and interesting. I had to limit informaiton since I needed to really get to the point with things according to my assignment, so If I've missed something, I can cover it in another article on another occasion. In regards to the nutrient percentage, my assignment was mainly asking for that with the idea that any animal being written about was on a "commercial diet" I however chose to cover raw and wholeprey feeding in a majority of my assignments where I was capable of covering ferrets. Information at the end about reporting and recording you will notice that some things will sound or seem concerning. Whe you're worried about your ferret, don't stop to think they'll get better with time or go online to get help, in urgent situations, it is best to get to a vet asap.
Please Note:
This information should not be removed, altered or reproduced in anyway. I worked hard on this part in particular and even asked for further opinions from reputable people. Some of this content is based off pieces of information from The Holistic Ferret Forum as well, so I would appreciate it if you refrain from reproducing this one post.
For further information I recommend you visit The Holistic Ferret Forum.
www.holisticferretforum.com
Thank you very much for understanding and I hope you enjoy this post.
Ferret Diet Basics:
Ferrets are strict obligate carnivores and need a diet that consists solely of animal proteins. Recommended diet of choice is Frankenprey, Whole-prey or a combination of both. Frankenprey is a combination of feeding muscle meat, organs and bone in meat. Compared to feeding simply whole-prey, mimicking natural eating through the Frankenprey model is more cost effective and easier for some.
At this stage there is no official nutritional standard available for ferrets, this means that there is no macronutrient profile available for ferrets like there may be for a cat or a dog. With that in mind, commercial petfoods such as specially formulated ferret dry foods may not be entirely appropriate for the ferret. For a more natural diet, the nutrient percentage is approx 40-60% Protein, 20% Fat (all life stages) This is based on an average nutrient percentage of natural prey items within the wild polecat's diet. This is as close as one can get without in-depth study.
Ferrets cannot digest plant proteins and carbs and it is best recommended to avoid feeding anything that contain these. Even if they are fed in small percentages, it will still be pushing the ferret body to try to digest them- In the long term forcing this can encourage a variety of health issues and complications as the ferret ages. (Eg. Carbs=Insulinoma.)
Quantities to be fed and how often they should be fed:
How much you feed a ferret depends on the ferret, the age, how much the food weighs (if we’re thinking whole-prey) and so on. To find out how much should be fed, you need to first figure out how much the ferret as an individual eats. Every ferret consumes a different amount and this varies season to season. During winter, ferrets may eat more, in summer they may eat less. (Sometimes reversed.) Young (kit) ferrets may even eat up to 10 ounces in a day (or more), it is okay to let them eat as much as they would like (same applies for pregnant or nursing Jills.). Adult ferrets generally eat around 1-3 ounces per meal. Females are known to eat small amounts so it is not uncommon for them to eat just a bit under 1 oz per meal. Male ferrets are known to eat more, which is understandable considering that size difference between male/female ferrets and could potentially consume up to 3-5oz per meal. Ferrets on a natural diet seldom ever overeat so it is safe to feed according to how much they consume in a day. How much they consume in a day, naturally tells us how much they need upon average with food and paints a good picture on how much food they should be consuming nutrition wise, let the ferret guide you to some degree. If a ferret consumes all given, feed some more. If there are leftovers that aren’t eaten after a few hours, feed less at the next meal providing there is still enough food given to last until their next meal. It is a good idea to keep a food log and weight diary in order to note changes in eating habits or weight in order to get a better idea what is and isn’t considered normal for the ferret as an individual.
Depending on the type and weight of the whole-prey, it is best to have one whole-prey item per ferret in an attempt to avoid any fighting over food… however even with more than one food between ferrets, they may still attempt to steal each others anyway. At least there is the benefit of enrichment through this behaviour. For large whole-prey, it is fine to feed according to the weight and how much your multiple ferret business eat per day. Example: 4 ferrets who consume approx 6 oz per day would mean that a rabbit weighing around 18 oz is more than enough for around 2 days worth of food. Baby animals are not nutritionally adequate for ferrets and therefore should be left as treats only.
Their raw food is also safe to leave out for a period of time.
Here is the basic guidelines: Soups - 6-8 hours, Grinds - 8-12 hours, Chunks - 10-24 hours depending on the size (larger chunks last longer) Bone-in meats - 12-24 hours, again depending on the size, Whole prey - up to 48 hours. During hot weather or summer, food should be removed and replaced with fresh food frequently.
Storage of the food and recommended containers:
Raw meat or whole prey should be bagged, or put in airtight containers.
Bags and containers must be freezer safe, and labeled with the name of protein and date. It is best stored as individual feeding amounts. (Example: Prince Yuuki 13/07/2016 - 3oz Chicken Wings.)
If you have more than one ferret, and you are aware that these ferrets don’t mind eating together or sharing food, or that there is no specific health issues that limit certain foods (eg. Protein Sensitivities or Allergies), then feel free to pack according to how much your business consumes per meal while following the HFF Frankenprey Feeding Model.
In the freezer, the meat can last from 6 to 12 months. Meat should only ever be thawed in the fridge and used preferably within the same day and removed or thrown out after 2-3 days at max. Ferrets are very funny creatures when it comes to their food, so even if you happened to by chance accidentally feed what would be considered an off piece of meat, they are highly likely to avoid consuming it especially if it were to potentially make them sick. Keep in mind that ferrets also stash meat naturally, and tend to come back and consume old pieces of meat. Their bodies are designed to be able to effectively handle this, but if you’re really concerned then be sure to clean out any stashes on a daily basis (if they managed to get meat out of their eating area that is.)
Keep the refrigerator temperature at or below 4° C. The freezer temperature should be -18° C.
Recommendations for container types: Sistema products for containers. They're BPA and Phthalate Free. They are also fridge and freezer safe.
Potential hazards to human and animal health with regards to the food preparation and distribution:
Spread of bacteria (or even parasites) can be a hazard for both human and animal health. Make sure that you only ever purchase or obtain meats or whole-prey from reputable sources. Inspect the meat prior to purchasing when and where possible, during prepping time and prior to feeding. When in doubt freeze meat for 2-4 weeks to kill any parasites. Keep and clean human and ferret utensils or tools separately. It is preferred if you have your own set of utensils and tools specifically for ferret meal prepping. Wipe down benches and always wash hands before and after handling food. Taking precautionary measures should ensure that no issues or problems occur, but in the rare chance that they do, go see a doctor and/or vet.
The following information should be recorded and reported regarding ferrets for feeding and watering:
If the ferret is not eating or drinking.
If the ferret is eating less and it is not linked to seasonal changes.
If there is a sudden concerning weight-loss that is not within the ferret’s weight fluctuation range or seasonal changes.
If the ferret is showing signs of discomfort during mealtime.
If the ferret is bleeding from the mouth, or any other part of the body for the matter.
If the ferret appears to be choking, seizuring, unconscious or becomes unresponsive.
If the ferret seems to have broken or chipped a canine or other tooth.
If the ferret is vomiting, having diarrhea or having any signs of reaction to the food.
If the ferret is not urinating or passing stools or is appearing to be struggling to urinate or pass stools.
If there is any mold on the food.
If there is anything in regards to the food that is concerning. (eg. smells, colour, textures, etc)
If the food stock is running low.
Things such as weights should be recorded every week, fortnight or month at best just to ensure that you get an idea on seasonal weight changes. Note any changes in coats as well as these also change seasonally.
When first starting a new diet, the stool should be monitored with a diary or log. Note anything in regards to stool colour, smell, texture, consistency and include the type of meal and protein prior to the stool.
Thank you to those who helped me with ideas, and opinions before I put this part into my entire assignment and submitted it for grading. My teacher really enjoyed it. :)
